Sunday, February 19, 2012

...it's C-a-r-n-e-v-a-l-e!


Ciao tutti,

Yes, here in Italy, Carnevale (Carnival) is upon us! For two weeks or so before the beginning of Lent, several cities throw large festivals with parades, music, and LOTS of costumes. The largest and most well known festivities happen in Venezia (Venice), and thus that’s where we went!

SIDE NOTE: I want to apologize in advance for all the photos in this post. This trip was so great and there were too many photos from which to choose, so I ended up including almost all the ones I took! I hope you enjoy.

A small group of us decided to spend the day in Venice this past Friday, and the train ride was fairly cheap and only about an hour-and-a-half away. Even before we arrived, there were people in costume on the train and others were already starting to paint their faces.

Besides the increased number of costumes, painted faces, and masks, the first thing we noticed when we left the train station was its location! So far in almost every other city to which we have traveled, the station has been in a pretty dull or gloomy part of town. The Venice station, on the other hand, opens right onto the Grand Canal with a beautiful view of the Ponte degli Scalzi as well as the church San Simeone Piccolo with its green dome.

People in costume at the Venice train station


People in costume right outside the station


My friend Adrienne and I standing outside the Venice train station
with San Simeone Piccolo behind us across the Grand Canal


the Ponte degli Scalzi crossing the Grand Canal, with
some docked gondolas in the foreground


Before moving on from this part of town, we noticed that there were several make-up artists set up right outside the station ready to paint intricate and festive designs on visitors’ faces. So we decided to go with the flow (after all, we’re in Venice for Carnival!) and get our faces painted! 


Adrienne getting her face painted

Me getting my face painted


The finished product!



My friend Emily and I with the Ponte degli Scalzi behind us


Our plan then was to walk through to the other side of Venice towards Piazza San Marco, the main square of the city that looks out onto the sea. Although it was a pretty long walk, there is absolutely nothing like meandering through the maze-like streets of Venice, especially during such a festive time as Carnival!









We had brought some food with us to Venice (so as not to have to stop to eat lunch at a pricey restaurant while we were there) so we found a little piazza (la Fondamenta della Maddalena, to be exact) to stop and enjoy our bread, meat, cheese, fruit, chocolate, and wine.


A view of the buildings surrounding the piazza where we had our picnic


All of us after lunch sitting on a bridge above the small canal that bordered our piazza































We then continued our journey through the maze of Venice, stumbling upon a hole-in-the-wall mask shop. Le maschere (masks) are a staple of Venetian Carnival, and there are vendors all over the city with intricate masks to sell. The store we found had a fantastic selection of homemade masks, and the woman there was incredibly nice. She loved that we were students from the United States, and I enjoyed practicing my Italian with her while chatting about everything from politics to food.


Some full-faced masks. Notice the long-nosed ones in the
second row from the bottom. These are known as "plague
doctor" masks, worn by doctors during the Black Death to
protect them from the rotten smell of the plague. The
tradition has stuck and the masks can be seen all across
the city during Carnevale.


The always popular eye-masks.


The store where we bought our masks.


My friends Adrienne and Sierra wearing their masks.




We eventually made it to Piazza San Marco, where most of the festivities were occurring. It was there that we encountered some of the most elegant and decorative costumes, as well as some great music, and a beautiful sunset in a clear sky over the water.


My friends Michelle and Sierra with a costumed woman


People in costume.


The main stage with a live music performer.


A couple in costume.


A family in costume!


A Carnevale wedding?


I caught these costumed people
taking a picture of themselves!




A cool picture I captured of a bird flying past St. Mark's Basilica


St. Mark's Basilica and the Doge's Palace


il Ponte dei Sospiri (the Bridge of Sighs)


The incredible sunset over Piazza San Marco


A costumed woman standing on the docks
that we lovingly nicknamed "Ms. Rainbow."


I leave you with some more pictures of my friends and I enjoying our masks, face-paint, each other’s company, and the overall ambiance of Venezia during Carenvale. Such an incredible day.



Emily, Sierra, myself, and Mollie


My friend Mollie and I


Enjoying the confetti


Pringles by the dock :) life is good.


Ciao for now,

Augusto






...it's F-e-r-r-a-r-a!


Ciao tutti,

No, not Ferrari. Ferrara is a city in the Emilia-Romagna region, just a 30-minute train ride north of Bologna. A week ago last Friday, a few friends and I decided to spend the day there. I also want to give my apologies for the delay in posting this. Now that the snow is finally starting to melt and classes are pretty much in full swing, I’ve been busy the past week or so.

Ferrara is a very cool city, with a relaxed vibe, a friendly population, and some GREAT culinary traditions (i.e., the food may or may not have been our number-one reason for going there).

When we first arrived in Ferrara, we walked from the train station towards the city center, passing the local post office on the way. I’d like to take the opportunity now to point out an observation I’ve had while taking these gite (day trips) around Italy: the post office tends to be the fanciest building in the city. I don’t know why, but it just is. It’s happened twice so far, first in Parma and now in Ferrara, where we’ve passed pretty fancy post offices. It’s a cool phenomenon, one that I know happens in some cities in the U.S. as well. I’m sure I’ve have more to report on Italian post offices later, but I just wanted to share these preliminary findings with you now:

The Ferrara post office

The Parma post office



A close-up of the Parma post office



Hundreds of bicycles at the Ferrara train station, many of them rusted from the snow

A tranquil Ferrara street



































While walking, we also passed the Castello Estense on the way. This castle, which dates back to the 14th century, is named after the Este royal House, which ruled Ferrara during that time.

Il Castello Estense

A view of the moat around the castle,
with floating chunks of ice and snow


























We continued towards the city center because we were all hungry for lunch, and (let’s be honest) we had come there for the food. We found a FANTASTIC enoteca/trattoria called “al Brindisi,” where we were able to indulge in a fixed three-course lunch menu with wine pairings! It was great. We started with some local meats – Prosciutto, salame – before moving on to the pièce de résistance, the pasta plate known as cappellacci di zucca, a tortelloni filled with pumpkin and Parmesan and served in a butter and sage sauce. Arguably the most delicious plate I have had in Italy. The third course was a serving of beef with puréed potatoes, but I really just wanted another plate of the cappellacci di zucca. We ended with some deserts and a sweet white wine. A two-to-three hour meal, completely satisfying J

The outside of the restaurant



















Dusty wine bottles





i cappellacci di zucca con burro e salvia




















After leaving the restaurant, we checked out the local cathedral, which was spectacular inside. With the weather being pretty overcast, though, it was fairly dark inside in the cathedral, but it did not disappoint.

The main façade of the cathedral

A protective griffin outside the front of the cathedral


The nave


A decorative side-chapel dedicated to Mary, with
spiral columns made from red marble of northern Italy

We then meandered through the city back towards the castle, where we could walk around the courtyard. We arrived at the castle too late to enter the museum portion, but we were satisfied with the day. Another great day-trip under our belts!

An ice-skating rink we passed on the way to the castle.
No one was there, but there were some great American '80s
songs blasting from the speakers!



















The courtyard of the castle


Ciao for now,

Augusto